Sunday, July 18, 2010



The finished product made me a bit proud and reminded of the history of coffee in the Americas. Guatemala as well as other Central American countries have been the heart of coffee production. This in turn has attracted foriegn investment and economic control, and finally structured the labor market with manual labor as the foundation. My manual labor today was nothing in the face of people whose lives have depended on this crop for centuries and whose hands have never received fair compensation for harvesting this black gold.

Coffee green to black





We take coffee for granted. Coffee, the first thing I think about every morning when I wake up, involves a long, intensive crop harvest, picking, drying and roasting of the beans, in order for the foriegn plant to be bagged, shiped, and soled in US stores. The hands involved in this process are numerous and most often, hands of color. A rare white hand has ever picked in coffee fields. But today, my white hands tried the (much easier) task of roasting Cafe Juana... My neighbor and I ventured to the market in search of the green beans. We found a local women named Juana, who sold us a bag of green pods - quite possibly picked from her back yard. We took the beans home and spent the afternoon roasting and toasting over a gas flame. Then, we crushed the beans with two blocks of wood until fine-ground, and finally ... into the pot it went to be boiled in water until we had what looked like... coffee.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Hiking Santa Lucia: stories of war and magic


An amazing man, economist, and post-war activist named Julio Cochoy, was kind enough to show three young women around the forest-trails of Santa Lucia. Myself, and two anthropology students accompanied him for 3 hours up and down mountian sides that had been partially washed out by the heavy downpours of this year´s rain-season. During our walk, we heard stories of war, stories of resistance, and stories of the magic... Magic that, according to Julio ( and I beleive him), still exists among the Jocote trees of the forest. These trees grow about 5 feet apart, but are intertwined above from tree to tree... making a canopy of hugging branches, knitted together above our heads. Julio´s strength as a war survivor and an international activist inspires me to share this history as well as continue to create my own - in a life commitment to resist injustice.

Pagan Church Rituals


This church, located in Chichicastenango, sits smack in the middle of the largets market in Guatemala. Twice a week, the market is flooded with locals as well as travelers. While the market provides daily basics such as food, cloth, dishes, etc., as well as bulk artisan goods, the church provides a space (although santified 100s of years ago in the name of Catholisism) for earth-based rituals to be held.

Colors of the earth: Solola Market



Guatemala is famous for it´s colors. Like in many other communities in Latin America with strong indigenous roots, Guatemalan people (esp. women) maintain traditional dress. Famous for women´s weaving on the BackStrap loom, Guatemala is a country filled with a colorful market of thread, string, yarn, and all array of supplies to create the masterpieces that then serve as clothing.

Monday, July 5, 2010

caught from behind


Just eating lunch when I got caught from behind. I'd said 'no thank you' to the woman the first time she asked if I wanted a scarf. This time, she decided my hair needed a little work. She began wrapping and before I knew it, I had the product for sale on my head! Lucky, the student next to me offered to buy it from me later on. The woman took the ten quetzales (about $1.30), did a prayer over my head, and walked away.

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Desfile, San Juan, Celebrating Faith


Town´s women carrying a holy statue on their patron saint day, this past Thurs.

Traje


Back view of a woman´s Traje, San Juan la Laguna on their patron saint holiday.

The volcano´s reflection in the water is almost a spitting image of the beauty itself.

Lake Images



Fishermen leave early in the morning to do their day´s work and catch food for the family or for market. This one is rowing across the lake in front of Santiago, Atitlan. The lake´s health is at risk for functioning as the community waste dump for local towns´sewage pipelines. Despite this, the lake is integral in the life of most people here, providing water, bathing, and food - life sustainance.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

San Juan art and preservation


San Juan la Laguna is a town across the lake where we have three students placed for homestays and work. Yesterday, I joined 10 other passengers on a public boat and crossed the huge body of water despite threats of rain and tremendously choppy water. My chore was to pay visits to families, check in on students´well being, and of course, get lost along the way. Despite being a bit turned around after my arrival to shore and my pick up ride into town, I couldn´t help but enjoy the view. San Juan is known for it´s artisans ranging from weavers, to painters, to muralists.

A happy cow has found her meal at the top of a Solola mountian...

honoring with color


Solola, the county seat, sits about 15 minutes up the mountian from Panajachel. Traveling to hear a presentation about a near by orphanage, we noticed the view from up top was highlighted with the multi-colored cemetery that sits on the edge of the city. The dead here are buried above ground in multi-level tombs. Families rent a small ground plot, about the size of one grave, and build up rather than dig down to honor the deceased.

back yard life




I am fortunate enough to live right behind a Milpa field. This corn, planted just about the time I arrived, seems to grow an inch every day. To get home, I walk through the field, and shimmy sideways through the narrow pathway between my building and the nieghbor´s. A couple more tortilla-pounds and I may not fit anymore!

Sunday, June 13, 2010

live roof


One last look at the Antigua horizon... Green roof tops flurish with ritual afternoon rains, and strong morning sun. Today, we begin our journey back to the Lake Atitlan communities.

student trail ...


A group of 19 gringos marching through the streets makes for a very obvious statement: we are tourists, students, or customers... and probably all three. Perhaps the most exciting night life we´ve had thus far was last night at a locals club. A winding, small bar space provided free, live cuban music, and lots of smiling young adults. Finally I got to move my feet to a rhythm I´ve been wishing for in Pana, but hadn´t found until coming to the larger city.

Friday, June 11, 2010


Zoning is different on Guatemalan streets, as in many Latin American communities. Residents are mixed in besides businesses; sometimes a family and a business will even share a space. This person´s house has aquired some new, green inhabitants, growing out from layers of old wall, paint, and history.

First time I´ve acknowledged myself on film since landing on Guatemalan soil... Red faced and in front of a volcano, I posed for a picture today. (see volcano in back)

The arrival to Antigua yesterday added a new flavor to our group´s experience in Guatemala . Especially for those students who lack much travel experience, this city (large for Guatemala, but ¨town¨feeling to most foreigners) has color and colonial flavor that the lake-side communities don´t flaunt. Streets are all cobblestone, half the folks in them are not local, and most of the other half are catering something to the non-local visitors. Antigua: the number one tourist destination in the country. I am reminded why my undergrad study abroad group, focused on social justice and the neoliberal economy, chose to go other places. But now, 9 years later, I must admit I am relieved to have a 3 day break from the more isolating areas of the highlands.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Final trip to Guatemala City


Coming down the mountain, on a clear day, you can see the blue of the lake from above. Arriving today, after many days of travel to and from the capital to pick up delayed students, was a relief - knowing that they had finally all arrived.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Resilience

The waters edge is littered with endless items. Wood washed ashore during the flood two days ago. Bottles, cans, bags, random treasures fallen to the bottom of the lake and now revived with the rushing current of too much water. This truck appeared the day after the flood. I am not sure if had been abandoned, or washed up as well. It's title (the dangerous ones) is shockingly appropriate for the scene of the aftermath. Needless to say, people here know how to survive. So much so that they systematically begin organized, manual clean-up immediately. With simple shovels, brooms, buckets and plastic bags, they hall the mud out of their houses, out of the streets, out of there lives. Same as the capitals' residents are doing with the volcanic ash that has baptized the city with a small reminder: Pacaya still lives.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Meanwhile, home for me is simple, safe, and calm. Last night, we lost power probably five times - and candlelight provided a dim glow in the room. Around 9pm, me and my neighbors (the family that lives on the bottom floor, I am on the 2nd floor) heard the rushing of water and the tearing apart of three local bridges that were destroyed by the local flooding- some 4 blocks from my house. Thankfully, I am up high, and not on the rivers edge. The storm has now come in from the Pacific, hit land and calmed. The sun is out today and the streets are newly paved with mud, landslides, and river stones.

Summer home, nature calls...

Home. This is home to many. Local indigenious peoples who´ve been living here since before the conquest. Spanish speaking Ladinos whose mix of blood, ancestry, and language many times imply a privelleged status, and then there are the Xpats and mission-service providers run by non Guatemalans. All of these people call this place home. Home, during the past three days has faced the ¨hand of god¨ in the medium of an angry mother earth ... It seems she has decided to test patience, resourcefulness, strength, and faith... all at once.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Guatemala summer 2010


Tomorrow begins the summer-adventure. Two months in Guatemala with 20 university students from all over NC. These young adults will focus on language and culture immersion, immigration trends from Guatemala to NC, and service-learning. I will travel in honor of my college mentor: Andy Summers who taught me more in two months (during a Witness for Peace trip) than I learned in the remaining 3 years of college combined. Thank you Andy - and this trip is in honor of you and your legacy. Paz y Justicia - hasta la victoria!